Blog

Harry and I finally made it to Australia. We’ve both been before, but we wanted to work here for a while to see what it’s like to live in a place where earning money doesn’t seem to be an issue (the general minimum you get paid seems to be $23-28/hr for a basic job). Yes, some things are more expensive here, but relatively you can save quite a lot if you play your cards right.

We arrived around 7pm in early September. The sun was already down, it was pouring rain, and it was really cold. This wasn’t what we expected when we landed in Perth! Last time I was here it was 40 degrees and sunny. I didn’t think they had a real winter unless you were in the south.

My cousin Angie picked us up from the airport and brought us to her home in Yanchep. That was where we spent the next couple weeks with her, Todd (husband), Oscar (2 year old son), and the dogs Sierra and Tonka. Within the first week, Angie had already left to go to Canada to visit our family there and bring Oscar to experience snow for the first time, so we spent most of our time with Todd and the doggos.

After being there for a couple of weeks, doing some job and apartment hunting, since we didn’t have anything solid yet we decided to go on a road trip with the truck Harry’s friend had lent us for a month and a half. It’s a giant 2004 Landcruiser with 4×4 and built in camping utilities and a pink octopus painted on the hood. It’s perfect for the outback.

We found some people through Couchsurfing who wanted to join, so along with us was Sofie (French, here being an Au Pair), Jihane (French, here travelling for a few weeks), and Albert (Spain, also travelling). So off we went, travelling down the western coast, fully prepared for camping.

The first day wasn’t too eventful. We checked out a beach or two in Bunbury, and then Busselton, then Meelup National Park. They were all nice, but Esperance blows them all away. I went last time I was here, and it really does have some of the nicest beaches in the world (although they are missing palm trees).

That night, we found a place to park our car and set up our tents for free, and began cooking some dinner. I had cooked for the first two nights and packed it in Tupperware, making it fast an easy when we were hungry. We had a legit fridge in the back of the truck so we could keep things cold when we needed.

The first night I made vegetarian curry on the cooking stove- it was delightful. We all had a beer and then went to bed fairly early, ready to get up not too long after it was light out.

Harry and I slept in the back of the truck with a queen sized blow up mattress. It fit perfectly and was a much cozier option than sleeping in a tent. We had a plug in air pump to blow it up for us in moments- this was proper glamping.

The next day we all made muesli for breakfast and were on our way to our next stop. The weather wasn’t looking too great; dark gloomy clouds were ahead. We weren’t looking forward to sleeping in the rain.

This was the first time we did a bit of off-roading and tested the 4×4. We went through a fairly tame trail to get to a certain beach we wanted to see. The truck performed well, we checked out the beach, and it started to rain.

A few more beaches later (that’s really all Australia is- beaches or red desert), we arrived in Pemberton. We wanted to see some sunset treetop views, but it was raining and there wasn’t much of a view at the time. Sofie was in desperate want of a shower (only day two…not sure why so soon) and we were checking out campsites and hostels to see if she could use one somewhere. We were really dreading setting up camp that night, knowing the forecast, when suddenly Sofie got really excited and said she found a couchsurfing host who could take us all in. It was a 2 hour drive away and it was nearly dark, so that would be a dangerous drive, but we opted it was the better option due to the weather.

So off we went to meet a guy named Shrimpy in Ocean Beach. We were all focused on the road, looking out for kangaroos, as the rain on and off torrential down-poured. We saw one roo by the side of the road, and thankfully only one that tried to cross our path. Harry was quick enough to slow down and not hit it, and it was smart enough to keep jumping along.

It was around 9pm when we finally made it. Shrimpy welcomed us with open arms into his grand home. There were two bedrooms set up for us and a couch; it was perfect. We were finally warm and cozy, so I reheated our next pre-made meal and we had a delightful dinner.

The next morning was slightly clearer. We did some shopping for lunches and our dinner for that night, and then in the afternoon Shrimpy met up with us to take us around the Ocean Beach area. We did an easy hike around one of the parks there, walking from beach to beach, then came back to the car and drove to our next destination. We then got to see the Green Pools and Elephant rocks, which may have been a bit nicer if it was sunny out for the colour of the water, but still nice regardless.

Back at Shrimpy’s I cooked everyone a proper vegetarian dinner while we had an oven to use. After we all shared a glass of wine, compliments of Shrimpy, and had a jam session with his instruments. He had two guitars and two ukuleles, so Harry and Albert took the guitars, I took a uke, and we taught Sofie a bit of uke so she could play along as well.

We said goodbye to Shrimpy that night and thanked him greatly for his hospitality, because we knew we wouldn’t see him the next morning.

The next day we set off for more adventures. We spent most of our day around Albany in Torndirrup national park. It was one of the most impressive places, in my opinion. Along the southeast side of the peninsula, there were stops you could go to and check out the insane waves. One of them has a bride built overtop of where the waves crash, so they’re going wild beneath your feet. Another one, the Blowhole, is really impressive when you walk past the blowhole itself and keep going until you get a good view of the beach below. The waves were super gnarly, going nuts from the storm most likely. We all agreed we wished we had our lunch then so we could have watched the waves roll for hours. It was just as tantalizing as watching a campfire crackle.

Sofie was proud again to have gotten us another host. Off we went to Bremer Bay to meet up with Jarred, a lovely man who again saved us from the nightly rain. He wasn’t really on couchsurfing but saw Sofie’s message in the email he received. He saw how desperate she sounded (she told us the messages were something like “we are very cold and have nowhere else to stay, please help us” :’D ) so he actually looked her up on facebook to try to contact her, since he couldn’t access his couchsurfing account anymore. Good guy Jarred.

Jarred had given us his vacation home to stay in (!!!), which was insanely cozy and warm. He lived just a block or two away and didn’t stay here normally, it was for friends and family who had bought the place together. We all had our own room (Harry and I shared obviously) and had the best sleep ever to recover from…nothing since we hadn’t camped really. We put logs on the fireplace and made pizza that night.

The next morning Jarred took us 4x4ing, he in his new Landcruiser and us in our old one. Two people went with him (they switched turns) on and off and we emptied the heavy load so we didn’t have to push the truck so much every time it did sandy hills. We only got a bit stuck on one sandy hill, but Harry made it out on the third attempt after Jarred gave him some tips. Again, beach to beach to beach was where we went that day, but this time it was spent driving along them.

We spent that night playing the Australian version of Cards Against Humanity and invited Jarred to join. We had a great time, definitely a few laughs, and Jarred went out and bought us all fish, squid, and chips. Good guy Jarred- seriously! I focused on the chips and put my favourite toppings on them- salt and vinegar.

We were off again the next morning and thanked Jarred greatly for his help. We were finally going to see the highlight of the trip, Esperance! It was still a bit of a drive since everything in Australia is far (it’s a surprisingly big country), but we arrived in time for lunch. We parked our car by one of the viewpoints and gazed over the bright blue ocean while we made food. The clouds were still looking a bit moody so we weren’t sure how long we would get to enjoy the views this day.

It started to pour not long after so we found a coffee shop, ordered warm drinks, and dove into some wifi for the first time in days. Sofie informed us we had another host for tonight (she’s good) and we could meet him after 6pm.

We waited about an hour until the rain cleared up a bit, and then off we went to explore a bit more of the coastline. Beach to beach to beach, but this time from above on the side of the highway. It was a bit too wet to make it worth going down to the sand, so we just enjoyed the sights from above.

Sunset was starting, and we made it to the not-so-pink Pink Lake (hasn’t been pink for over 10 years). It was a beautiful sunset with all of the clouds, so we all snapped a few shots. We found another unofficial viewpoint a bit further down, got out, and took a few more pictures. This one was a bit of a hop-skip-and jump over the muddy parts, but with the reflections it was beautiful. Neville (out host) called me, since I had a phone number and non-French/Spanish accent, to instruct us how to get to his place properly. As I was on the phone, I saw everyone very quickly rushing back into the car. While trying to bay attention to Neville, I was also trying to fix my way back through the mud in my flip flops and figure out why they were going so fast, and many moments too late I realized it was due to the hoard of mosquitos. 20 bites later around my ankles and legs, I made it back in the car. I told Neville all sounded good even though I had only half a clue what he had said from being distracted, and off we went according to Google maps. I knew the directions he gave me and had a feeling we should have followed them, but with so many mosquitos in the car we just wanted to get there and get out, so we followed the fastest route.

This whole area was mostly dirt roads and he said we would get there through some muddy ones for sure, so as we turned onto the first exceptionally muddy road, we figured it was right. It didn’t’ seem so bad anyway, just some worn in tire tracks with a bit of slosh.

Maybe five minutes into that road, Harry tried to avoid a puddle of mud he couldn’t see through by going around it. Wrong move. We were suddenly going nowhere.

Neville seemed like this redneck, proper bogan Australian who lived on a farm, and that’s exactly who he was. We called him and told him we got stuck, he nicely gave us a bit of you-know-what for not following his instructions, and said he would do what he could to come help us. It was dark by now so it was hard for us to see through the mud and tall grass, so we tried to wait inside the mosquito ridden car for as long as possible. My shoes were in the trunk, completely inaccessible at that moment, so I was stuck in flip flops.

Ten minutes later, Neville showed up with his four dogs and a big tractor, ready to rescue us. We all had to get out of the car as he manoeuvred around to figure out the best way to do this. He looked at one large bush behind us, decided it wasn’t necessary in it’s place, and hauled it out of there with ease. Then he picked up the truck from underneath and with Harry at the wheel, pushed it backwards to where the bush was. Harry then figure out when he had traction again, and we were saved from the mud.

We thanked Neville and drove back out of that road. He had apparently told me specifically to not go down that road, but I hadn’t heard it at all. We went the route he told us and all was well that way.

When we finally made it to his place, we got what we needed for the night and were greeted by Neville again. There were three rooms for us to use with comfy beds, it was heaven again. We cooked some delicious dinner, shared it with Neville, and called it a day since it was quite late.

The next day, Neville offered to take us through Cape le Grand national park, where you can see the best beaches and cuddle hungry kangaroos. Our truck was having some clutch issues (since a couple weeks before), and they had seemed to be getting worse after 4x4ing. Neville took it for a drive, deemed it “f*cked”, and so that was part of why he offered. Thankfully he had enough seats for all of us.

So off we went to Cape le Grand. We saw Lucky Bay, which is where the kangaroos are, and decided it one of the most beautiful beaches. White sand, super blue water, and spectacular rock formations; it was perfect. The kangaroos were all around the picnic area to feed off of the tourist’s leftovers. We exchanged crackers for photos with one of them, a mom and a little joey in her pouch. She let us pet her and even her baby a bit without any fear.

We also saw the less popular Hellfire Bay and Thistle Cove, both which were also beautiful. The day was mostly sunny (finally) and there weren’t a lot of people around. It was the same when I was there two years ago in March, not too many people seemed to flock here for whatever reason. We also took the short stroll to the top of Frenchman’s Peak, a hill that overlooks all of the coastline.

To get back to Esperance, we took the short-long way. By that, I mean we went 4x4ing again on the beach. We did this after a storm and after Neville had told us people kept getting stuck and one guy even flipped over. Neville was a professional driver back in his day (he’s around 60 now) and used to jump cars and all that fun stuff. He deemed the track doable, so off we went.

Normally you should flatten your tires if you’re in thick sand. We figured we’d go as far as we could until we maybe needed to do this. With the 4×4 on, off we drove, kicking up sand behind us. I will definitely admit there were some dodgy parts when we felt a bit sideways, but Neville always got us through everything, like a pro.

It gave us some comfort to see we weren’t the only ones on the beach at that time. We did encounter a few other drivers sliding along in their vehicles. Most of them seemed to be out to fish.

We made it out safely and back to Neville’s house we went. Three of us cooked dinner while the other two washed Neville’s shiny new truck to get rid of the salt and sand. We had lasagne that night, another epic meal we never thought we’d be making on this “camping” trip.

We were nearing the end of our trip, it was back home to Perth that day. We would have to drive about 8 hours to make it there, with only one major stop at wave rock. Neville had no faith we would make it with the way our clutch was, but we were going to try because Sofie had to be back at work the next day.

We began our most boring journey of the trip. Driving, driving, driving through nothing but desert. After four hours we made it to Wave Rock. We got out, took our pictures, then I went to start cooking since I’d seen it before. By the time everyone was done, the meal was ready with whatever we had left for food (zucchini mixed in rice and two large pieces of lasagne split up).

I took a turn at driving for a while so Harry could rest. About 2.5 hours later, we stopped for gas. We were getting closer and closer to home. Harry took the wheel again. An hour later we needed a pee break, and that was where things started to go really wrong.

When we first got the car, every once in a while when we were in the wrong gear we noticed a burning smell. After we fixed our gear, it went away quickly. But we noticed this smell a lot when we were 4x4ing, and now it started to come back for no reason. We were an hour outside of Perth and found ourselves trying to put up the hills as if they were super steep and we were in a fully packed semi truck. Someone noticed smoke from the hood, and we knew that was it.

We pulled over to the side of the highway and tried to let the car cool and see if we could continue after. Long story short, there was no continuing because the gears would no longer engage. So we were stuck.

Sofie called her Au Pair household, and we were insanely lucky that the mom (Jai) was able to come help us. She put her two kids in the car and started driving from about half hour away.

In the meantime, some kind lady had stopped on the side of the road to see if we were ok. She had actually been going in the opposite direction, but I suppose since she had nothing else going on that evening, wanted to help. She drove four of us and as much stuff as she could take in her SUV to a gas station about fifteen minutes away. Harry stayed behind with the truck. She said she had been coming from York, where we filled up our car, to drop off her grandkids back to their parents, and was just on her way home. When she saw us, she couldn’t help but ask if we needed anything. Such a kind woman!

Jai arrived soon after and picked up Sofie, Jihane, and nearly everything we brought in that nice lady’s SUV. Then Albert and I ended up going back to Harry with that lady because we all couldn’t fit in the car.

With Harry we waited about an hour and a half for Sofie to come in her little car to pick the three of us and the rest of our stuff up. We jammed as much as we could into the car, and off we went. We dropped off Albert to the train station, and Jai was nice enough to offer Harry and I a place for the night. Sofie let us sleep in her bed while she pulled out another bed from beneath her usual one. It was perfect.

The next morning, Sofie dropped us off at some nearby mechanics, about 30km from where we had broken down. We asked a few of them what the cost would be, and they all said about the same. None of them had a towing service and we knew that would be a bill of about $200+ that we didn’t really want, but were willing to pay if we had to. Split between five, it’s not as bad.

We were right next to the highway that went to where our car was, so we pulled out our magic thumbs while holding up a sign that said “Car broke 30km →”. It took about fifteen minutes before an old man in his pickup truck pulled over and took us the whole way.

When we arrived to the truck, we flipped over the sign and it now said “Car broke, please tow 30km → ☺ “ There wasn’t a lot of traffic on this highway, but we were lucky enough that someone in his truck pulled over less than half an hour later. They had actually driven past us and turned around to come back to help. They seemed to be experts at this; they already had a towrope (as many Australian’s do) and a little scarf to tie in the middle so people could see the rope easier. Since the hazard lights on our truck didn’t work (no mechanic seemed to be able to figure this out), we kept our left turn signal on the whole time.

The couple that pulled over for us talked us through the downhills on our radios; when to brake and when not to, since we weren’t exactly experts like them. We had to stay a safe distance away from them while still not braking to put too much pressure on the rope. Harry was driving but we were both super focused on the road.

With a fair amount of ease, we made it to where we had to turn into the side streets for the mechanic. We turned the corner, and that was when the rope snapped. We were only 500 metres from the mechanic at this point.

The guy retied the rope and easily brought us the rest of the way. We thanked the couple for helping us out and offered the rest of our beer to them, but they politely refused, told us best of luck, and off they went.

The mechanic’s wife was nice enough to drive us back to Sofie’s house, where we spent the rest of the day and even that night because the truck wasn’t quite ready (Jai was too kind).

The next day Sofie brought us to the mechanic and all was well. The clutch was perfect and the truck was fully drivable again. After picking it up in the afternoon, Harry and I went off to a well-paid weeding job, and after that we finally made it home to Yanchep with Angie and family. For us, the road trip was finally over.

In the next weeks we moved into our granny flat not too far from Fremantle and have done some proper job hunting. We’ve been doing odd tasks for money so far and I’ve had a couple photography gigs (a solid one for Saturday’s shooting family portraits), but no stable work as of yet. Still we’ve been able to afford our new place so far and hopefully something will come up soon. Fingers crossed!

Quite randomly because of cheap flight prices, Harry and I took a trip to Romania with our friend Alain and his Romanian girlfriend, Andreea. We went with no expectations and very last minute, so we packed one small backpack each and a week later hopped on a luxurious Ryanair flight (if no one got that, there was a lot of intended sarcasm there).

We landed in the cute little town of Sibiu. It’s like many other European villages with cobblestone walkways, multiple churches, and old school roof tiles. It had a very cozy feel to it, maybe the fact that we were there at sunset helped the atmosphere.

We only spent an hour or two there before we went off to Andreea’s house. Her dad had nicely come to pick us up and gave us all a place to sleep in his house in the smaller village of Aiud. After dropping our stuff, a feast was soon served with some great vegetarian options for me. The Romanian culture is very heavily based on food and no one would ever let you go hungry there. In fact, I don’t think there was a single moment when we were hungry on that whole trip.

The next day we went to visit Andreea’s grandmother. He grandma was in tears when she saw Andreea, purely out of happiness, because she had been away for quite a few months by then. Family relations are very tight and important in Romania, probably on the same level as food, dare I say.

Andreea’s grandma is still strong for a woman of her age. She does farm work regularly, collecting eggs, picking the world’s best tomatoes off the vine, selecting grapes for wine, cutting the grass with a scythe (that thing the Grim Reaper carries around), etc. She grows all of her food fresh, even the animals she eats are from her farm. Nothing is processed or has any chemicals, 100% organic. Everything we ate at Andreea’s parents’ house had been from this garden, most spices included, and I have to say the tomatoes really are something else. I can’t stress enough how good they were. They tasted like cherry tomatoes but were big and insanely juice. You could eat them like an apple.

Next we drove around a bit and got off here and there to take pictures. We found some small mountains that were a really nice spectacle since we hadn’t seen any proper mountains in a long time. We also found a town called Rimetea where we got this delicious, deep-fried Hungarian bread covered in garlic sauce and cheese called langos- it was to die for. That wasn’t the last time we had langos.

The next day we went to their family cabin, which was only a 15 minute drive from their house. Even though it was so close, it was still in the forest a bit and felt like you were on a vacation (from our current vacation…from our life which is one giant vacation). It was a small but cozy place with a pool and a fire pit- what more do you need? We spent the day enjoying the sun, walking through the forest, and playing board games.

The morning after we had a fairly busy day ahead of us. First we went to a salt mine, where people go regularly to exercise and breathe in the salty air. It was massive and at the bottom had a tennis court, playground, squash areas, and other things to play around with. They say breathing in this super salty air is really good for your lungs. After getting another langos on the way out, we visited a small, walled city called Alba. We meant to only stay for a bit but ended up getting lost on the bottom floor, unable to find our way back up for quite some time. Finally we went to visit Andreea’s sister, who we had seen the previous night, in the city she lives in. Cluj-Napoca is a university town and is the biggest city we saw while we were there. Though it has some cute parts to it, I found it to be too commercial and busy.

That pretty much concluded our trip. We were on another flight the next day back to Belgium. I gotta say, it sounds like a simple trip, but I think I had the most fun with them in comparison to my whole Belgium trip. I would love to go back to Romania one day to taste the tomatoes again; they were the highlight.

Belgium! It was good to be back in a place where I knew we’d have some sort of a stable life for a while.

Three major things happened while we were there for the summer: Gentse feesten, Tomorrowland, and Pukkelpop. All festivals because I guess Belgians just like to party all summer.

The Gentse feesten (Ghentian festival) runs for one and a half weeks and different musical stages are set up in all of the medieval squares of Ghent; it’s free to see. There are performances from the late afternoon on, and buskers throughout the day. You can get tasty fries, waffles, Bicky burgers, and other typical Belgian food from the vendors. You can drink whatever you want on the streets (although you could kind of do that anyway because it’s Europe) and it’s really just one giant party through the city.

Some people go out EVERY night. I don’t know how that’s possible, I have a hard time trying to go out on the odd weekend. But I did manage to enjoy five days of the festivities while actually staying out past 10pm (big deal for me) for three of those nights. The biggest night we celebrated two of our friends’ birthdays and stayed at their place in Ghent, then the next morning went out for a boat ride through the canals. It was fun, although I gotta say the Belgians listen to some really weird music. I had a hard time finding any decent rock and roll, it was mostly electronic, pop, and a lot of typical Belgian folk music. Then whatever some of that strange stuff was classified as.

Our next festival we only went to because we got press passes for it, thanks to my high school photography teacher who got me in touch with a friend of his. Tomorrowland is one of the biggest EDM festivals in the world, and it’s not my music at all. Despite that, it’s a crazy experience to go there. Every year they set up some sort of whimsical wonderland themed stages, this year the theme was Planexis, all about underwater sea snails and other creatures.

People generally came dressed up either according to the theme, in various onsies or costumes, wearing as much glitter and as little clothing as possible (easy with the 40 degree heat), or the odd normal person wearing shorts and a tshirt. Flags are often used as capes and you can see there are people from all over the world, it’s really quite a united place.

My job was to photograph everything that was going on and whichever DJ performances I chose. I was told I needed a journalist, so Harry took on the role of writing an article about it in the end. We spent three days observing the bizarre world of Planexis and stayed with Harry’s wonderfully adventurous aunt during the nights. She was nice enough to pick us up at night, but thankfully we didn’t end too late anyway (midnight or 1 AM).

I am super glad I got to experience Tomorrowland once, but I know I would never do it again (unless I was working a second time). The price is insanely high and the music isn’t something I fancy. The setup and crazy people are spectacles that are cool to say you’ve seen once, but once is probably enough.

Finally we went to Pukkelpop. This festival we paid for because all of Harry’s closest friends were going. I went mostly for that reason, I was a sheep (an expensive sheep at that), but I did get to see a few people I enjoyed.

Pukkelpop has a very mixed variety of music genres, but I would say it’s a bit heavily centred on EDM. The bands that I liked were Arcade Fire and Walk off the Earth, who I’ve seen before but it was nice to see again, SYML, who was amazing, Kodaline, who were also really good, and I discovered the Wombats.

We spent the nights camping on the festival grounds and ate fries I think daily, because they were the cheapest food we could afford at the inflated prices. We also packed a lot of healthy food (muesli, carrots, wraps with veggies and avocado) but since we had to lug our bags from 20 minutes away, we couldn’t pack too much.

We had a great time together overall, but I think this is another festival I wouldn’t pay for again unless I knew there was going to be a great line up. I had the opportunity to go to another festival, Rock Werchter, and ended up in Italy during it so didn’t go. Maybe I will check that one out next time I’m in Belgium.

So those were the main exciting things that happened in Belgium this summer. Harry and I were sad to say goodbye to his friends and parents, but we will be there again in a couple of years. So until then, Belgian folks.

It’s been a while, time for an update. Should have written these next few posts months ago…but life sometimes gets too crazy! So, here we go:

My parents were nice enough to come visit me in Belgium. My dad may have needed some (a lot) of convincing to do the trip, but I think he finally decided to come because I told him I wasn’t heading home any time soon (kind of blackmail, I guess?).

Paris

I met up with my parents at our quaint hotel in Paris. I was very proud of them for following my instructions well and getting there via the excellent metro system Paris has put in place. They arrived before me (I was taking the train from Belgium) and went to get some breakfast, so when I got there I waited for them to get back.

This was certainly no Best Western or Hilton, but for the price and location I think it was great. It was very typical European, and by that I mean there was a tall, winding staircase to get to each floor and rooms with big windows that opened onto a view of the courtyard on one side, and a view of the busy street on the other. When you were on the stairs halfway to the floor above, you could take a bathroom break because there was a toilet on every half level to…optimize the space? I don’t really know. Maybe not all rooms included a toilet. I think my dad would have preferred a more typical Americanized hotel room, but I also think he appreciated the charm.

We only had that day to explore grand Paris because the next day we were moving onto Belgium. So in a nutshell- we bought some packs of train tickets and went as far as we could with them. My mom has some issues with walking at the moment so she couldn’t walk to far, but the train took us most places easily.

This is going to be a long story short because it was a few months ago at this point and I don’t remember everything we did. We started the day by visiting the grand shopping centre, Galeries Lafayette. It’s fun to just walk around and look at all the fancy stuff most people can never afford, as well as the cool trinkets that you want but would never use. At the top you get a great view of Paris with some of it’s greatest monuments in the distance, including the Eiffel tower, and you get the best view of the Opera house. It’s one of the best places to get a view of Paris from above for free. You can have a drink or meal there if you want as well, but it is pricy!

From then on, we walked through some of the parks (which are nicer in the spring, I will admit), saw some golden statues, a few carrousels, and admired some of the grand buildings from the outside. It was too late for us to get tickets to most things for that day and the lines were an hour or two long, so things like Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Eiffel tower we appreciated from outside.

We ended the day with the best view of Paris from the Tour Montparnasse. As the sun went down, we enjoyed the city light up and the Eiffel tower sparkle on the hour. It was a good finish to our first day.

The next day we got up and had some typical butter croissants (drooling as I mention them). We went to one of the markets that happened to be going on that day and browsed through all of the fresh produce, clothes, and random knickknacks. It was pretty normal for me at that point because I’ve been to them all over Europe, but my parents really enjoyed it because it’s something that it only available in the two months of summers around Vancouver, and only in a few locations.

Belgium

Afterwards, it was time to get to Belgium. We grabbed our bags and took the metro to the train station. I bought the sale seats for 15 euros each and realized quickly I probably should have went for the 25 euro ones (we were seated in fold down seats for 2.5 hours, but eventually found better seats and made it work). We arrived in Brussels, caught the train to Ghent, and met up with Harry and his dad. We ditched the luggage in the car and walked around the cobbly city of Ghent a bit. It was around dinnertime, so we went for a lovely dinner together with my parent’s, Harry, and his parents. For the first time our parents were meeting face-to-face (ooOOoOoOooOoooo) and we had a typical Belgian meal of mussels and fries. It was delish (I had a cheat day on my vegetarianism for this).

The next day Harry and I took my parents to Bruges. They loved the medieval, fairy-tale like village (the city centre) and my dad and I did some imagining about which tower it was that the guy from In Bruges fell from. I think my dad particularly enjoyed the medieval themes in Belgium, so I guess he will have to come back again to visit.

Italy

Already the next day we were off again. Harry’s dad was nice enough to drive us to the airport, where we departed for the authentic Italian city of Naples. We landed and went to our first AirBnb not too far from the centre. It was a beautifully renovated place in an old building and was easy to get to and from.

We saw some lovely plazas, ate some great margarita pizza, and took in the sometimes-chaotic lifestyle of the Napoletano people. It is a city that is full of passion, fresh tomatoes, and creative life hacks. For example, some old lady two or three floors up a building was yelling aggressively out her window at the veggie vendors down below. She put some cash in a basket that she lowered to them, they put in some tomatoes, and she pulled them back up. That would never happen in Canada.

We did a tour through a castle on the water as well as through the museum of Archaeology. Both were very interesting and we enjoyed looking at statues, bones, old tools, and learning general history of what went down many years ago.

We spent a couple days there and then rented a car and started our road trip. Our first stop was Herculaneum, a similar site to Pompeii but much smaller. We learned a lot of really interesting facts and could make out certain architectural areas and how they used to live. We discovered how the first toilets were, some original plumbing, how they priced things (from writing still visible on the wall), and how their stores were laid out. The volcano Vesuvius was visible in the background, the one who ended this small civilisation in an instant.

We continued on to the Amalfi coast. This was the part where we began to regret renting a car a bit because the traffic is just INSANE. First of all, there is a lot of traffic, second, people drive like madmen, and third, parking is non-existent, super expensive, or miles away. I highly, highly, highly do not recommend driving here if you can take a bus, which is an easy and convenient alternative.

On that note, after we stopped in a few places along the way, such as Sorrento, we got to our hotel, which the parking situation was a nightmare for. Our car was parked a 15 minutes drive away and it wasn’t us who took it there. We had to call some local guy who didn’t speak English and never picked up his phone if we ever wanted our car. This was set up by the hotel. After waiting over an hour on the side of the highway to get our car returned the next day, we refused to give it back to this crazy Italian (who was another madman driver) and pay him 12 euros per day. The price was right, but the situation wasn’t worth it.

Amalfi itself is a very cute little coastal town. If you go through the little alleyways, you’re out of the tourist centre in a quick moment and finding yourself chatting with some of the locals who speak a bit of English. We had one of the best meals I have ever had in one of the off-the-beaten-track restaurants (still touristy, but less); it was fresh made pasta with some garlic zucchini sauce that I will never forget. This was the best meal of the whole trip for me, on par with some pizza I had in Como.

I did a photo shoot with a cute couple around Amalfi (smart people who took the bus there) and we got to do some location hunting along the way, and I really have to stress that you should get away from the centre if you ever visit! It is such a touristy place, but those random alleyways and staircases lead you to some pretty cool spots.

Rome was next. We drove the rest of the Amalfi coast that we hadn’t seen, passed Vesuvius, and got to our AirBnb outside of the city centre. Rome is another place with great metro lines, so we made sure we had a place we could park the car for free and take the metro line into the crazy city. It’s insanely touristy, but worth a visit outside of the summer I would say.

From the Colosseum to Trevi fountain, we saw the touristy stuff and enjoyed delicious pastas, caprese salads, or paninis for lunches.

Of course we had to visit the country of Vatican City to see the grand religious buildings. Were they ever grand. Massive paintings on the ceilings and walls, various statues, St. Peter’s Basilica, it’s all way over the top with decoration and thought. The amount of money back in the day that would have been needed to create this is just unthinkable. It’s one of those things that was definitely wrong to build because the money came from people who needed it for basics like food and clothing, but now we have this massive spectacle to drop our jaws at with an insane history. So- it is what it is, might as well go see it.

Our next destination was beautiful Tuscany. We arrived to our AirBnb and it was nothing like the photos and so we ended up paying for an upgrade to what was in the photos (would not recommend this place only because of that), but the upgrade was a lovely place. We looked over the rolling hills of vineyards and had lovely sunsets by the pool. We stayed in a small town just outside of Montepulciano, which is definitely worth a visit. It is situated near to many tiny, hilltop villages that are sometimes enclosed by stonewalls and overlook the valleys below. We ended up visiting five or six of them, including Montepulciano itself, and they were all super cute and nice to spend 30 minutes to an hour just walking around, maybe getting a coffee or gelato, and enjoying the Tuscan sun. We even took a day to check out Siena, which is a bit touristy but still nice.

I did a photo shoot there as well and it couldn’t have been better weather. Sunset was just epic and the couple was super nice. They were an hour late so we ran through Montepulciano as quickly as we could and then went to our AirBnb property for the rest of the shoot. I have to say- I love working in Italy!

After that we drove to an area south of Florence for our next AirBnb. It was a really cute place, but too many mosquitos for me! Better than staying in Florence though, that city is way too touristy and has a lot of traffic. It’s cool to see some of the sights, but really there are just too many people year-round.

We were near the end of our trip when we went to Genoa, which was where Harry and I would take off to the Dolomites and my parents would make their way back home. So we had a last dinner and breakfast together and parted ways for now.

Harry and I then took a train to the tiny town of Cles, where our Couchsurfing host (Silvano) picked us up and brought us to Cloz, an even smaller town near the foothills of the Dolomites. There he made us a lovely Italian dinner and gave us great advice for hiking through the Dolomites.

The next day he dropped us off near a hiking trail where we started to head up the mountains. It reminded me a bit of home because there were many evergreen trees and the smell of moss was often quite strong. Close to the top it was rocky and there became less vegetation, as usual. It was nice to see some natural spring water pipes coming straight out of the mountain, great places to refill our water bottles.

The weather started to turn a bit dark and rainy, so we turned around and headed down. At the bottom we ended up in a cute town, similar to any other mountain town, and got some hot chocolate to warm up.

The next day, Silvano’s good friend Vanessa took us to Andalo, a slightly touristy town a bit similar to Whistler (much less touristy). She worked at a local ice rink there so it was very convenient. We walked around the city and did a small hike to a deep green lake. The weather wasn’t the greatest so we didn’t get the nicest colours, but it was still nice to be in nature.

That evening Vanessa invited us for dinner with and her family, who, for the most part, didn’t speak a word of English. We still had a lot of fun and ate some amazing, home cooked, Italian food.

Our final day was spent doing a very small hike to another lake, this one with some beautiful, turquoise water. We enjoyed the last little bit of “Canadianness” we could get and then spent that night getting some great pizza with Silvano, Vanessa, and their cycling team.

We were then off to Cinque Terre, a place I had been before with my lovely friend Mia and her family a couple years back. This time we were going to visit Harry’s parents. We stayed in a place with a beautiful view of Riva Levante below, the costal city closest to where our hotel was.

With Harry’s parents we saw some places that I hadn’t seen last time, some small villages I really can’t remember the names of. Of course, we also checked out all five of the villages of Cinque Terre, and they were spectacular as always. Last time I went in March, and I gotta say, I prefer it then when there are less tourists! Regardless, their colourful beauty still amazes the eye.

Two more stops left. First was Como, where we visited a Belgian friend of Harry’s who was living there with his girlfriend. We spent the first night watching a game of European cup football, Belgium vs France, and I think we all know who won that round. The next day we spent walking around Como and visiting a few of the ferry stops around the lake. In Como itself, we had the BEST pizza I have ever had in my entire life. Harry and I loved it so much we got a second one the next day even. I don’t know how they made their pizza taste so much fresher than any other Italian restaurant, but it was just top notch, way above any other pizza I’ve ever had.

We spent the evening with our friends, Jan (“yawn”) and Marijan (“mary-yawn”), in a place only locals knew about. It was right on the lake but way out of the tourist centre. There the boys went for a swim while Marijan and I enjoyed the setting sun.

Harry and I took a 5 AM bus to Venice, arrived to our hostel a few hours later (the one time we didn’t have a CS host!), and crashed a bit before going out to do anything. We didn’t actually make it into Venice until the next day, and then we spent the whole day walking around the romantic city. Gotta say, this is another city better seen out-of-season because there were too many tourists. In Venice you can escape them a bit by walking down random streets and getting lost, and that’s the best way to do it.

Finally it was time to go home. We hopped on a bus to the airport, got on our Ryanair flight, and finally had some comfort of staying in one place for a while. That’s one thing you miss when you travel too much- stability. Constantly living out of your backpack and not knowing what you’re doing and sometimes where you’re going the next day is mentally exhausting. We were more than ready to stay put for a long time!

Anyway, stay tuned, I should be uploading a lot of posts over the next few days!

We arrived to Malaysia from Myanmar happy to be in a new country and excited to be nearing the end of our trip. We only had 6 days to see what we most wanted to see, so we chose to do what was recommended to us by other travellers- Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown. Kuala Lumpur (KL) was a pretty obvious one since we were there anyway, and Georgetown is probably the second most visited place that is famous for it’s street art.

We took a bus and the metro to get to our host’s house. They were a couple, Sasha was Malaysian and Olga was from Ukraine and living here for four years. We met up with them and they opened their beautiful apartment to us. It was a really modern place with a great view from the balcony, and also a gym room and a swimming pool. My kinda apartment.

Already we decided to go out and explore. We checked out the grand city, which is just as modern as any other downtown area in Canada, but maybe more beautiful with the palm trees and tropical flowers. Our first stop was the twin towers, which are really magnificent buildings. There are great viewing points in the park next to it.

Next was the viewing deck of what is their version of the Harbour centre or the Space Needle. We got a view of the whole city, which was nice, but maybe not quite as spectacular from above as some other cities. With the ticket we paid $1 extra to see the upside down house, which sounds kind of lame, but we actually had a lot of fun taking pictures in it. It’s literally a house build upside down with the furniture glued to the ceiling.

After that we checked out one of the fancy malls, which was HUGE. I’ve never seen a mall so big, but it’s very common in Malaysia as I found out near the end of the trip. From there we walked to Chinatown and the central market, which were really fun to look through. Lots of good deals around if you know how to bargain, but also lots of junk you don’t need.

Finally, in the evening we went to the somewhat hidden Heli Bar. It’s a bar on top of a heli pad that lets in anyone until 9PM when the dress code changes and it turns into a club. We just went for a (very pricy) beer to check out the view for sunset. It was really beautiful and I would recommend trying to find this place if you’re in town. It’s not advertised outside at all, you just have to map it well to the right building. But yeah, sunset was gorgeous and the view was maybe even better than the actual viewing centre.

That night we made it home still early enough to catch a movie with our hosts. They were going to see Star Wars and Harry and I went to the Avengers. Our movie times synced quite well so it was perfect, and we only had to pay $5 each for the tickets. Way cheaper than Belgium, so why not?

The next day we made our way to Georgetown. For 35 ringgit (a bit more than $10 CAD) we had a really fancy bus with super fast wifi. We watched Netflix the whole ride, it was great. We were dropped off on the island quite far from Georgetown itself, so from there we hitch hiked to the centre. We were picked up by a really nice guy picking up his daughter from swimming lessons and he took us to the central bus station in Georgetown so we could get a bus to our hosts place. From there it was an easy bus to his house (his name was Michael, Australian) and we were greeted by him and his friends and this Australian pub/restaurant in the downstairs area of his resort-style apartment, complex, whatever you want to call it. We had a great time meeting new people and eating western food, then we dropped our stuff off in his place.

I said the last host’s apartment was nice, well this place was AMAZING. Really a beautiful place, so fancy. The swimming pool was an infinite pool (we went for a dip a little while after dinner) and the gym had all of the latest equipment. Everything was very modern and was decorated with lots of palm trees and tropical flowers. And Michael was a super nice guy, really did whatever he could to make us comfortable and treat his guests well. He is someone we certainly hope to repay the favour to some day.

So Georgetown. First we went north to the beach, quite a ways outside of Georgetown. By the time we got there the weather wasn’t looking so great, so we briefly checked it out and then turned around and went to the downtown area. We spent the day just walking around and checking out all of the street art points. There are tours you can take, likely free ones as well, but we chose to do our own tour from what we found online and from good ol’ Maps.Me. There are some “ok” art pieces that are made out of wire, and they’re cool and tell a story, but not exactly what we were looking for so we tried to skip those ones since there were so many more to see. We found the best ones around the town and took a ton of photos, and even enjoyed posing with a few of them. ‘

We ended the night back at the apartment and looking for groceries to cook. We were shocked at how expensive the groceries were and ended up getting frozen pizzas for a much cheaper price. When we got back inside, there was another couchsurfer from Vancouver. We chatted about home and where we were both from and grew up; it was cool to reminisce a bit.

the next day we were really sad to leave already, but we had to. We made our way back to KL, but this time took a ferry across the water from Georgetown and hopped on a bus from Butterworth. It was a bit easier this way to go back, we figured, plus the ferry ride was free.

Several hours later we arrived and took the metro back to Sasha and Olga’s house. We arrived quite late so we said hello and everyone soon went to bed after.

The next morning was our last day. We went to check out the Batu caves, which were very close by, and Olga was nice enough to drive us to them and pick us up after. They were religious caves in the free section, and there was a paid section where you could go deep into the cave. Of course we stuck to the free part. It was nice, but I would say nothing special.

The rest of the afternoon we spent chilling out, and at 4PM we caught a GRAB (like Uber) to the airport, and that was that. Our trip was over, and we flew back to Belgium via Qatar (great airline, by the way). We had a lot of fun, now it’s time to relax our brains for a while from the travelling scene. I say this and yet in three weeks my parents are coming to visit and I’m showing them around Italy for 2.5 weeks. Anyway, ta ta for now, folks.

Harry and I have now finished our trip in Myanmar, and we can honestly say we loved it. We spent 21 days here and kind of wish we stayed a few more, but we did the best we could in the time we had. I have a lot to talk about and a ton of photos, so I’m going to split my blog post into three parts.

Part 1: Yangon – Kyaiktiyo – Hpa-An – Mandalay
Part 2: Pyin Oo Lwin – Hsipaw – Bagan
Part 3: Inle Lake – Naypidaw – Yangon stopover – Ngapali beach – Yangon

Once again a reminder of the currency- $1 CAD = 1000 kyat (chat)

The third and final part to my blog about Myanmar. I’m glad to be able to stop blogging for a while; it does get tiring and I am certainly no writer. One more after this- Malaysia. Then I’m done until I start travelling again in 90 days (visa requirements). Anyway, here I go.

After another long bus ride, we arrived in Inle lake. We had to pay a tourist tax of 5000 kyat per person (another rip off, we were sure), but there was no avoiding this one. We immediately began to look for a hotel, and after checking out several quite pricy options, we settled for the Golden Fish hotel who gave us a great deal of 20,000 with AC and breakfast included. I really don’t know how we kept finding these killer deals.

The next morning, we took a boat tour, because that’s the thing you do in Inle other than trekking. We began around 8AM, although sunrise would have been much nicer, and we paid a total of 18,000 between 4 people after bargaining.

We sped off in the boat and our first “attraction” was a man in a boat, who when saw us coming, immediately stood up and posed for the camera with his special Burmese fishing net. It’s something you see a lot of pictures of online and thing “wow how cool and cultural”, but in reality, these days it’s all just for tourism. It was so weird and awkward that I couldn’t bring myself to take a photo, and also I didn’t want to be asked to tip him.

Our next stop was fairly typical for boat tours, at least I’ve noticed. We went to a community on the water, held up by bamboo stilts, where they weave clothes- in this case it was out of lotus plants. We watched the women work away and make real clothes (this was slightly more authentic). All of their products ended up in their local store where you could buy them at a high price quoted in American dollars.

Next was watching some men make jewellery out of silver. The jewellery was beautiful, I will admit, but again, the prices were all in USD and for us it was a bit unaffordable and more-so unnecessary. I love to look at jewellery, I can stare at it for much longer than probably appropriate, but I never really wear it.

There were some temples included on the tour, nothing out of the ordinary, and then we went for lunch. We had a surprisingly not-so-expensive meal at one of the restaurants and I was happy to finally get to try the local delight, green tea salad. I love green tea, so why wouldn’t I love the salad? It is quite crunchy because it has dried lima beans in it, and I think I would have loved it if the sauce hadn’t been made with olives.

The best part of our lunch stop was there were so many kittens! They were all sleeping together, then one of them decided to play with me. You can’t go wrong with kittens…

Next we learned how they make their local cigarettes. They are all natural, wrapped in banana leaves and sealed with honey. We see people smoke them often and they are sometimes given in hotels along with toiletries. Neither Harry nor I are smokers at all, and we are super against tobacco, but we tried a puff of the mint one since we were there. And I can’t believe I’m saying this- but it actually tasted really good, super minty. I really felt like I just used mouthwash or ate a mint. Regardless, we didn’t buy any and I doubt I’ll ever try one again.

Next up was the floating tomato farms, which were exactly as they sound; a grove of tomato plants floating on the water. There were several fishermen around doing some actual fishing with different nets than “advertised” and pushing themselves around with the oars by using their feet. The water isn’t too deep so their oars can touch the ground if they’re long enough, and so that’s how they tend to paddle while standing and fishing.

Finally we went to our last stop, Indein. It’s a religious site with a ton of stupas that takes about an hour to boat there. It was cool to see, worth the extra 3,000 kyat (without Indein the tours are 15,000). We saw some puppies living inside one of the stupas and that was really cute, can’t go wrong with puppies either. We had to pay 500 kyat to use our cameras, but we skipped out on that and decided to take no photos. I may have snuck in a photo or two with my phone though.

After all that, we finally took the boat back home. The trip was good to do, worth it, but I wouldn’t say anything crazy or special. That could be the over-travelled version of myself talking though, after seeing so many things that are way cooler this just seemed mediocre. Like I said though, worth it.

When we got back we bought a bus ticket for the next day to go to the capital of Myanmar, Naypidaw, for 11,000. We took a walk around Inle one last time, checked out the market and all, and enjoyed the rest of the evening.

We were picked up the next morning by taxi and taken to our bus. We hopped on our bus and after around 7 hours, we arrived to Naypidaw. We got off the bus a bit early because we noticed we were much closer to our hotel than if we went all the way to the bus park. We were still 10km out and certainly did not want to walk it all, so we began thumbing (there are no local buses). We first got a ride in the back of a pickup with some government workers, they took us about halfway and dropped us off at a petrol station. Our next ride was a guy in an AC little black car, also a government worker. He luckily took us all the way.

We stayed at Jade City hotel for 25,000 with a free scooter rental. Scooter is the only way to get around Naypidaw unless you hire a taxi for the day, because the city is HUGE. Everything is super far away.

We checked in and we were the only guests of the whole hotel. The hotel was also huge, over 100 rooms, and none of the occupied. We were in a modern ghost town. They said their last guests had been there about a month ago. I’m not quite sure how these places stay alive- government funding I guess.

The story of Naypidaw, supposedly, is Myanmar feared terrorist attacks on Yangon so they built this whole new city to be a sort of distraction away from where everything is actually happening. The whole city is only full of government workers and the odd tourists who want to see a city full of nobody. It’s quite surreal; when we went to eat breakfast the next morning we were the only ones in a large banquet hall. Creepy.

So we scooted around and checked out the city. There is this area of a 20 lane highway with only a few cars here and there, and some police watching over it. The parliament building is around it, but it is heavily guarded and you’re not allowed to go too close.

We drove around several beautiful lotus roundabouts and watched as the workers kept the place so beautiful and clean. There was no inch of grass left uncut, the bushes were moulded perfectly, and the streets kept clean. So they could show off to who? Who knows.

We ate at a restaurant that evening and found a crowd of people, finally. There is a district where there are many restaurants, and I guess that’s where people spend their free time. After our meal we checked out the water park as it was dark. There was a show going on and we found an area where they were playing a movie by projector, projecting on spraying water. It was kind of cool, neither of us had ever seen that before. There were some lit up fountains and quite a few people here as well. I guess we caught movie night for the locals.

We then checked out a Buddhist temple and the lit up main pagoda of the area. Both were cool, nothing new for Myanmar though as there are temples and pagodas everywhere.

The next morning, we were off. One night in that city is certainly enough. We bought a ticket to Yangon (65000 kyat), although our next destination was Ngapali beach. There was no direct bus there so we had to make the detour. After a few hours, we arrived, and looked for an immediate bus to Ngapali. To our dismay, the buses for that evening were sold out. We bought a ticket for the next evening (15,000 kyat) and made our way to downtown, with hopes that our good friend Namit could host us that night. Luckily he could, so we spent the night and chilled out a bit the next day.

Around 1pm we made our way back to the bus station. We caught our bus and off we went on another night bus.

After a horrible, windy, ride (quite a few locals lost their dinners along the way), we arrived early in the morning around 5AM and began our search for another hotel. We settled with Kyaw Ngapali hotel for 25,000 with AC and breakfast included. We were a short walk from the beach, with access through the closest resort (which, by the way, was amazingly beautiful and we felt a little sad we weren’t staying there).

Since we were up so early, we caught sunrise on the beach, and it was gorgeous. The beach in general was gorgeous to our surprise, and we’ve seen some really nice beaches in our lives. Highly recommend it.

We pulled out the drove for some epic beach shots of the blue water, white sand, and palm trees. The long shadows made it perfect and in that moment we felt really happy we went because we almost skipped it due to it being monsoon season. The weather we had was beautiful for the most part, a little cloudy during the afternoon, but we couldn’t have asked for a better day.

Everywhere it smelled so nice because of all of the tropical flowers that bloomed all around. We hitch hiked to the other side on the back of an ice truck and quickly realized why there were no hotels on that end. It was dirty, the beach was full of plastic and glass, and there were dead fish everywhere either being dried or forgotten leftovers from fishing. This is the real beach, in a way, and needs some serious clean up. Even if I weren’t vegetarian, after seeing that mess, I wouldn’t eat the fish.

For sunset we made it back to the beautiful end of the beach. There were a few tourists, only a handful, and they were all sitting on the beachfront restaurants enjoying life. By beachfront I mean on the sand, footwear optional. Harry and I relaxed in some beach chairs and shared a beer while watching the sun go down. It was really spectacular- one of the highlights of the trip most definitely. There were no sand flies and not too many mosquitos; heaven for me. We wished we could spend more time there, but already the next day we had to leave.

We left the next morning to go back to Yangon. The ride back wasn’t quite as bad, but still it seems that Burmese people have a hard time with windy roads (from previous experience as well). We caught a spectacular sunset on a random beach where we stopped for dinner- really one of the best I’ve seen. Then off we went again.

We arrived in Yangon around 4AM and made our way back to Namit’s place. He left the door open for us and we quietly snuck inside and went to get in a few more Z’s. We spent the last day chilling around the house and eating dragon fruit (I miss it so much). That night we meant to go out to a bar, but ended up watching geeky videography videos together since we’re all into the art of making videos.

Early the next morning we left and said goodbye to our awesome host and to Myanmar. We had a great time and were so glad we got to see the country before it’s completely turned over by tourism. The people were some of the nicest we’ve met in Asia and we would recommend seeing this country ASAP if it’s on your list.

Next up, Malaysia!

Harry and I have now finished our trip in Myanmar, and we can honestly say we loved it. We spent 21 days here and kind of wish we stayed a few more, but we did the best we could in the time we had. I have a lot to talk about and a ton of photos, so I’m going to split my blog post into three parts.

Part 1: Yangon – Kyaiktiyo – Hpa-An – Mandalay
Part 2: Pyin Oo Lwin – Hsipaw – Bagan
Part 3: Inle Lake – Naypidaw – Ngapali beach – Yangon

So here we go, Part 2.

Once again a reminder of the currency- $1 CAD = 1000 kyat (chat)

From Mandalay, we were debating on taking the train or a shared taxi to Pyin Oo Lwin, because the train is dirt-cheap. We ended up going for the shared taxi because it saves you two hours in travel time and it wasn’t that much more expensive (1200 kyat vs 1500). It was still a long and very windy road, I think it took us about 2 hours, maybe a little longer due to some very dusty construction.

Anyway, we entered Pyin Oo Lwin with almost no expectations. We didn’t really know what was there, we went because a friend of mine told us to go. We found the Bravo hotel with a clean, AC room for 20,000 with breakfast included, and decided to settle there for the night. This place had poor reviews online but we actually found it to be really nice for the price.

The next morning we rented a motorbike from Grace hotel, who had the cheapest deal of 8,000 kyat for the day. We drove around in search of some waterfalls we had heard of (Anisakan and Dat Taw Gyaint), found the dusty parking lot right next to a very golden pagoda, and had to pay 500 for the parking. They said it was too dangerous to drive all of the way down, and once we started walking, we could see why. The road is mostly paved but it’s very steep and windy with many potholes and other obstacles. A little exercise never hurt anyone though, so we hiked for about half hour to get to the bottom. On the way there were some mini waterfalls and a stream to keep us cool.

When we finally reached the bottom (it seemed like forever since the path is so boring), we were welcomed with a spectacular sight. The falls were very impressive, and we got so excited that we pulled out the drone and shot for maybe forty-five minutes straight. Myanmar hadn’t impressed us that much with it’s beauty yet, but now we were certainly impressed.

After we were done shooting we jumped into the cool water. It was the perfect temperature, a little cold at first, but afterwards it was such a nice relief to the hot day. We swam up to the waterfall and even under it to reach the alcove behind. A few locals joined us, and aside from them there weren’t many other people around. When we arrived we saw two tourists leaving, and that was it.

After our delightful swim, we ate some noodles for 1500 kyat at the noodle stand that happened to be down there. They were soup-type noodles, not fried, and they were delicious. We then packed everything up and began to hike back up, but on a different path.

Along the way, we came across some more waterfalls that were the feeder falls to the ones we had just swam in. I’m not sure which falls were which in terms of names, but I’d recommend checking out both if you can. These ones were also beautiful, and they were more peaceful because there was only two men fishing in the water and that was it.

Continuing on, we were walking on a small path through bushes and forest, once in a while questioning if we were going the correct direction. Maps.me was our guide and it worked perfectly, the path was very accurate. After half an hour, we were back at the top.

Before we left, we decided to check out the particularly golden pagoda. I couldn’t go inside because I was wearing a strappy top and shorts, but the outside was more beautiful than the inside anyway (I figured). Some nice monks were there to greet us and welcomed us to take as many drone shots as we wanted, which was quite odd as most people are telling us it’s against all rules to fly around religious sites.

When we were done, we hopped back on the motorbike and drove to some other waterfalls. These ones were on the opposite side of the city, so it took a small while to get there. When we arrived, we had to pay a 500 kyat entrance fee. When we began walking around, we figured out why. This place was more like a park with fancy bridges, statues, and toys for kids. Regardless, it was still a beautiful place to be for sunset and the water was nice. The waterfalls were very small and not at all impressive, just peaceful. That being said, there were very busy parts of this park that had many locals playing in the water and floating around on tubes.

After this we went back to the hotel. It had been a long day in the sun, but a very good one. Just from these places we highly recommend checking out Pyin Oo Lwin if you’re ever in Myanmar, it was worth it.

Our next destination was Hsipaw. We did take the train this time, it was 2750 kyat for first class or 1200 for second, and since for us the difference is so little we went for first. Our butts thanked us big time; we would be sitting on cushy seats instead of wooden or plastic benches for the next seven hours.

We went over the “famous” (sort of) Gokehteik bridge and took pictures out the window of other people taking pictures out the window (damn tourists). The ride was quite beautiful at parts, including the bridge of course, and had some nice canyon views at times. Worth it to do once, but maybe not twice because it’s so slow and really not THAT beautiful.

We arrived in Hsipaw and stayed at the Red Dragon hotel, which if I remember correctly was 27000 kyat with breakfast. This was the first time we had fans instead of AC, but it was alright there because it wasn’t as blistering hot. We also had a bathroom outside and downstairs, but prices in Hsipaw were so expensive everywhere that we didn’t care.

In Hsipaw we honestly didn’t find much interesting to do. We visited some ok waterfalls that had a pool a 5 minute walk below them that was beautiful with the cherry blossom petals floating in it. That pool was nice to cool down in, but very small and when a local family came to join us, it became overcrowded with the six of them.

We also visited a “hot” spring (more like a lukewarm spring) that was less than impressive and not worth the bike ride there, but at least is gave us something more to do. We were going to visit another waterfall nearby that one, but as we were biking to it, we had to park our bikes in the horrendously stinky junk yard/landfill as well as walk at least an hour one way in the beating sun with no protection. Not to mention we couldn’t see any waterfall for miles, even though the land was flat and clear and we could see the hill it would be coming from easily. We had heard that outside of rainy season, it might not be active, so we opted out and biked back.

Our final stop was Mini Bagan. This was alright, the tree growing out of the pagoda was pretty cool. All of the vines and plants growing on the pagodas gave it a nice touch. Was it anything special? If you’ve been or are going to Bagan, no. But again, it was another thing to do and I’m glad we did it.

Overall, we felt Hsipaw was just a giant, overpriced, tourist trap. We don’t regret going exactly, but we could have certainly better spent our time elsewhere with the limited time we were given on our visas. So, after a night, off we went to the next city- real Bagan.

We took an overnight bus from Hsipaw to Bagan and arrived very early, around 4am. There is this tourist tax you’re supposed to pay of 25,000 kyat, but we had heard it’s a pretty BS fee and doesn’t go to conserving anything like it’s supposed to, so we opted to find a way to skip it. After negotiating with some taxi drivers, we found a guy who would take us into town for 6000 kyat. We had to fight though; those taxi drivers were pretty ruthless and trying to charge us prices upwards of 15,000. They said they would take the “other road” so we didn’t have to pay the fee (it’s a common thing), and after we heard their prices and started walking away one of them threated to call the police on us if we walked and didn’t hire one of them.

Our guy was nice though, I think he heard everything from a distance and came to help us a bit. He not only charged us a fair fee (we were only going 3km), but he also hid us from having to pay the tourist fee. He brought us to our hostel, a place we had heard doesn’t check for the entrance tickets, and we thanked hi for being so nice to us.

We stayed at the Lux Pillow II hostel. It was a bit pricier than normal, I think 30,000, and the breakfast was dry bread with ant-filled jam. They did have these doughnut stick things and veg samosas as well, but deep-fried isn’t my favourite morning food.

Right after we were checked in, we rented some e-bikes for 1,000 each per hour, and went for an hour to see sunrise. We checked it out at one of the nameless temples we had found online. You need to check online every time you visit to see which temples are open for climbing, because they rotate them for maintenance purposes- or so they say. We were a little late unfortunately, the sun had already risen by the time we were there, so I did not get my perfect sunrise photos. Also, the hot air balloons were not out, I suppose not the season for them.

We went back to the hostel and snoozed for a bit after our horrible nights sleep on the bus. When we were ready, we walked around a bit and grabbed some lunch and checked out the market. We had some typical noodles and I bought some dragon fruit later, it was delightful. We then booked out bus for Inle lake at a tour agency and rented one e-bike for the two of us to go check out sunset.

Two hours before sunset, we went out and explored more temples. There are so many to be seen- it’s impossible to see them all in one go. We chose the best ones we found online and just drove around from one to the next. We also had a chance to check out the riverfront, which was a nice break on the eyes after so many temples.

We eventually found a sunset point where there were a few other tourists and some locals trying to sell post cards and whatnot. One lady came up to me and showed me some books she had; I ended up buying Burmese Days by George Orwell from her for 4000 kyat. A good deal, I’d certainly say, because it’s hard to find books for cheaper than $10 in Canada, let alone cheaper than $5. She was really sweet too and a good saleswoman, so how could I resist?

Back we went to our hostel and readied ourselves for the bus ride the next morning. A nice cool shower was exactly what we needed, and at 8am the next morning, our transport picked us up to take us to the bus.

Stay tuned for part 3!

Harry and I have now finished our trip in Myanmar, and we can honestly say we loved it. We spent 21 days here and kind of wish we stayed a few more, but we did the best we could in the time we had. I have a lot to talk about and a ton of photos, so I’m going to split my blog post into three parts.

Part 1: Yangon – Kyaiktiyo – Hpa-An – Mandalay
Part 2: Pyin Oo Lwin – Hsipaw – Bagan
Part 3: Inle Lake – Naypidaw – Ngapali beach – Yangon

So here we go, Part 1.

We arrived in Yangon with not many expectations aside from it was going to be a hot, humid, and expensive country (in comparison to the rest of SE Asia, India, and Nepal). A lot of people have told me Myanmar was their favourite country because the people are really kind and not yet sick of tourists, and also it has such a great variety of landscapes. I did have fairly high hopes for the country and was excited to go out and explore.

We took a cab to our couchsurfing host’s house (Namit) in the morning from the airport. Luckily for us, Namit waited to let us in before heading in to work a little late, and left us with the keys to his wonderful, air-conditioned apartment. We relaxed a bit, got our things together, and figured out what to do in this city.

Walking around, we found a breakfast place to fill our empty stomachs. The place was called Craft and was full of white people on their MacBooks. We checked the menu: $3.50CAD for a tea, $2.80 for a croissant, $1.80 for two pieces of toast with jam. We knew it would be expensive, but not western prices. Might as well have went to a Starbucks in an airport. We were hungry though and had just done an ATM run so didn’t mind spending the money this time.

Back at the apartment, we decided to leave a bunch of stuff behind that we didn’t need over the next three weeks (souvenirs, trekking clothes, etc) because we’d be back in Yangon for our flight to Malaysia. Namit had given us an empty cupboard to fill with our things and had no problem with our plan, and our backs were loving him after that.

That night, we walked around a night market and through streets of street food. Not only did we find out how expensive Myanmar can be, but we also found out how cheap. We got some fruit shakes for 1000 kyat and sushi rolls for the same.
[Quick conversion- $1 CAD = 1000 kyat, pronounced CHAT, like “we should have a chat, son”]
We found a vintage camera (a Kodak Brownie) for 10,000 kyat, which took a type of film that is too expensive and hard to find, otherwise I would have bought it. There were all of the typical fake watches, shoes, and random trinkets you’d find at any night market in Asia. We were pretty tired after looking around so we began the walk home to see what our host was up to. After 20 minutes we arrived home, spent some time chatting with our host, and just ended up going to bed fairly early from exhaustion.

The next morning we decided to make a fruit salad for breakfast, so we went out and bought some dragon fruit, mango, papaya, orange, and bananas. While we’re in Asia we want to eat as much fresh fruit as possible since it’s served right from the tree/bush RIPE, instead of picked under-ripe, cooled, and shipped off to our cold countries. Man, does it ever make a difference in the taste. The fruit here is so sweet; it’s a dessert in its own. I’d much rather eat dragon fruit than chocolate cake.

We spent the day organizing our schedule as much as we could while we had wifi because we heard the wifi was really bad throughout the country. Indeed it wasn’t the greatest, but not as bad as some people made it out to be in the tourist hot-spots.

That night we all hung out together at one of the local bars with all of the Tuesday nightlife scene, which was actually bigger than I expected. We had some live acoustic guitar music (open mic night) mostly by people who couldn’t sing, but also with some really spectacular voices. It was really relaxed and a nice welcome to the hot and humid city.

The next day we took a public bus to the bus station. The public buses (the ones that come from downtown at least) are really nice and air conditioned, so it was a lot nicer than the expected sweaty, hour-long ride from downtown. We arrived and hopped on the cheapest bus we could find to Kyiaktiyo, the village of the famous Golden Rock pagoda. We found an AC bus for 7000 kyat each, so we booked that one.

The AC bus, although it had AC to start with, quickly turned into an open window bus when we started moving so for any travellers going this route, be aware of that. We had heard that all of the AC buses were super cold and so we packed our sweaters and long pants. It wasn’t needed at all for this ride. Actually we only took one bus that was considered “too cold” on the whole trip, which was a nice change from most of SE Asia where they blast their AC to the max needlessly.

Anyway, we arrived about four hours later, if I’m not mistaken, just as the sun was setting. We looked around for a guesthouse and checked out maybe five places, and settled with a place called Family Guest House, which was a nice, modern room with AC for 23,000 kyat. They claimed they didn’t have wifi, but Harry sneakily “hacked” in to their wifi by checking the password on the router. We weren’t sure why they didn’t want to share it with us, but they said they would have wifi next year. Strange.

The next day, we did what the tourists there do and we went to check out the Golden Rock which is this sacred rock that someone painted gold and it sits awkwardly without falling on the edge of a cliff. We took a strange vehicle up to the rock, like a giant jeep that sat maybe 50 people at once, and revved our way up the steep hills. We arrived and had to pay an entrance fee as foreigners and wear a badge that made us stick out like sore thumbs (as if we didn’t already). We were the only tourists there and the “fame” that we experienced in India had followed us here- many locals wanted pictures with us. But they weren’t as aggressive as the Indians were and asked politely, so we let them snap one or two photos.

We made it to the rock itself eventually, and took sight of its infinite glory. I wasn’t allowed to touch it, you know, being an inferior woman and all, realistically my chain shouldn’t go beyond the kitchen. Obviously I’m half joking here, but in the Burmese culture (not the Buddhist religion, Buddha doesn’t discriminate) they do not allow women to go up to certain religious artefacts. Such a strange concept in this day and age, but discrimination is still very real in this world. But you can’t make a big scene about it in countries like this, you just kind of shrug your shoulders and go do something else.

We walked around a bit longer on the top of the hill, then took the bizarre jeep back down. We grabbed our bags from our hotel and already began looking for a way to our next destination, Hpa-An. We found a share-taxi (a pickup truck with benches and a cover in the back for 4,000 kyat each, and spend the next four hours with the wind in our hair.

We arrived in Hpa-An again in the evening, but already had a feeling of where we would stay. We went to the Soe Brothers II guest house because we had heard they had great day tours and spoke good English. When we arrived they told us the Soe Brothers I guest house had cheaper rooms with fans and outside bathrooms, but for something like 6,000 more kyat we opted for the AC ensuite rooms (26,000 kyat total). The rooms were again, quite modern with wifi, and the AC was great until it shut off in the middle of the night, along with all of the power. Without the AC it was pretty deadly hot and both of us woke up sweating. It was very stormy that night, so we knew the cause, and just hoped for the best. Eventually after a few hours, it did turn back on, but it wasn’t an easy night.

The next morning we were informed the Soe Brothers weren’t doing a tour due to the weather. It had been pouring all morning and even though at that point it was clear, they still didn’t want to go. So we took our chances and rented a scooter, hoping for decent weather from then on.

The places we visited were some of our favourites of the trip. Our first stop was the Yathaypyan cave. This was a very well decorated cave, full of Buddha statues and special carvings. You could walk quite deep into it and even into some little crevasses to a candle lit prayer area. Probably the best cave we did on the trip.

We also tried to go to Kawgun cave, but were turned off by the entrance fee. Maybe it’s a great one too, but after the crazy one we had just seen, we didn’t need to pay to see another. So we instead went to something marked as “Waterfall/swimming pool” on our favourite app, Maps.Me, and since it was already really hot out it was nice to refresh there between sights.

After that, we attempted to drive to the Saddan cave, but the road there was so poor from the rain that we decided to turn around. Most of the roads in Myanmar seem to be new and well paved, but this one was muddy and slippery. So we continued on to the Kaw Ka Taung cave, and that was nice too. More Buddhas and there was another swimming pool there.

After a full day of scooting around, we finally drove back to the Soe Brothers. Our stuff was already packed up and ready to go so we caught the evening sleeper bus to Mandalay for 15,000kyat. It had good air con but was constantly playing loud Burmese movies, although that seems to be standard in any bus. As with any night bus, we had a horrible sleep and arrived in Mandalay the next morning around 5AM.

When we arrived, we “shopped” around quite a bit for a good hotel. Thankfully even at that time there was someone at the reception everywhere, so we didn’t have any troubles. We settled for Moonlight hotel, which we were actually really happy with. For only 18,000, we had a super modern room, great AC, clean bathroom, buffet breakfast, and bicycles included. For Myanmar, that’s a good deal.

With our free bike rentals we spent the day biking around town. We saw the usual in Asia- lots of pagodas. One of them was particularly interesting; it was considered the largest book in the world. Every stupa on the premises contained a different book that was all part of one giant book. So yeah, it was pretty big. We walked up to another pagoda to see it from above and it was pretty crazy.

That evening we took a motor taxi to see the U Bein bridge for sunset, which is considered the longest teak (wooden) foot bridge in the world. The bridge is nice, nothing too crazy, but it is definitely long to the point where you don’t want to cross it all if you don’t have to. We arrived a little later than we had hoped for photos of sunset, but it was still nice to see and we got a cheap dinner in the area (noodles as usual).

The next day we took a ferry for an hour to see Mingun, which is across a very large river. We got to see more pagodas (because we just can’t get enough of them) as well as the largest pile of bricks in the world. And yes, that’s exactly how the Mingun Pahtodawgyi advertises itself. It is an unfinished stupa and because it’s unfinished, it’s, in a way, just a pile of bricks I suppose.

There was also a bell you could ring and a pagoda called Hsinbyume Paya, which is made of all white. Aside from walking from site to site, we also got to chill a bit in the shade and eat/drink a coconut for lunch. Afterwards, we took the ferry back and prepared to move on. We collected our stuff and took a shared taxi to Pyin Oo Lwin. A weird name for English speakers, yes, but it ended up being another one of our favourite places in Myanmar, so stay tuned for my next post!

Harry and I have finally left the beautiful country of Nepal for somewhere new that neither of us have been- Myanmar. We said our goodbyes to Kathmandu yesterday afternoon and after some strange time change and seemingly redundant travel, we eventually made it the next morning.

Our last couple of weeks were spent between Pokhara and Kathmandu. We didn’t do a whole lot honestly with me being sick. We did rent a scooter in Pokhara for a day to go to Sarangkot for sunrise. Sarangkot is this hill where people often go paragliding (I did that 4.5 years ago) and to see sunrise over the mountains when the weather is clear. We were lucky to get to see the mountains light up that morning because most mornings recently it’s been very hazy. We also went to check out another nearby lake, Begnas. We putted our way there on our little scooter, took a dip in the lake, and relaxed a little bit before heading back to beat the rain.

When we eventually arrived in Kathmandu, we were happy to see some new scenery. The bus ride wasn’t nearly as long as I remembered due to most of the way being fully paved now. Thamel, the tourist area, was pretty much the same, although prices of places to stay went up a bit. We visited the Monkey temple, which was still full of monkeys, and somehow found a free way in. We did an overnight tour to Nagarkot where we were hoping to see some beautiful views, but due to crappy weather missed out there. It was still nice to get out of Kathmandu for a night. On our way back we visited Bhaktapur, which we also somehow got around the entrance fee. While walking around a bit we determined it wouldn’t have been worth the $15US anyway, so it was better we saved our money.

From our hotel in Kathmandu, we took a local bus to the airport (25 rupees per person vs a 500 rupee cab ride) and made it through the dusty streets with ease. We spent our last rupees on chocolate danishes and Snickers at the airport, and eventually flew off to our first stop while flying over Myanmar (the cheapest and only option), ending up in Malaysia. In Malaysia we had an overnight layover of about 9 hours (horrible) and tried to find some spots on the ground to snooze. We were pretty unsuccessful, that airport isn’t a great places for snoozers between flights, which I remembered from previous experience there. Our flight was at 6:50am, which we were happy to board to be on our way again. I tried to sleep the whole 2.5 hour flight, which I did a bit, and when we finally arrived we hopped in a taxi as soon as we could to meet up with our couchsurfing host, Namit, in Yangon.

Arriving in Yangon felt a bit surreal- we were both brought back to travelling southeast Asia. Walking out of the airport was hot and humid and we’re going to have to get used to that for the next month. We were so glad to be somewhere new though, so it didn’t matter too much. Our cab dropped us off at Namit’s place downtown and we were relieved to find an air conditioned apartment. We grabbed some breakfast and crashed for a bit while Namit went to work. That night we all celebrated Namit’s birthday and had a relatively early night.

This morning I bought all of the exotic fruits I could find (dragon fruit, mango, papaya, banana, orange, and durian) and made a wonderful fruit salad for breakfast. Although this is something you can easily do back home, it’s special here because the fruits are so perfectly ripe and fresh off the tree/bush. I’m happy to be in fruit-land for the next little while, I may end up with diabetes by the end of this trip.

Tomorrow we move on to the Golden Rock of Myanmar. I hear the internet is pretty horrible throughout the country, so I may not be able to update until I’m back in Yangon, three weeks from now. I don’t really have any photos to share, so I will make sure to add some next time. Shaka brah until then, my gnarly peeps.

Trekking- what an adventure. We hiked for 8 days between Mardi Himal and Annapurna Base camp (ABC). We could have just done Mardi Himal alone in 4 days, but we wanted to extend our stay in the mountains a little longer so we cut into the ABC trek when we could.

From Pokhara we started by getting a local shuttle bus to the Baglung bus terminal, grabbed a bus to Kande from there, and from Kande we started our adventure. We hiked the first day for about three hours after a late start to the trek (early start to the day, but waiting for buses takes a long time). We arrived to our first teahouse (like a guest house) in Deurali (2100m) thankfully just before the rain started, around 3pm, and then it poured for a couple hours solid. We met lots of other trekkers at the teahouse we stayed in; we were a group of about 20 who were all heading up the next day. There was a cozy wood stove that made the dining hall really warm and enjoyable to be in. I had hand washed our socks and underwear so the stove also helped dry everything by morning. After meeting some new people and playing a few card games, we went to bed early and prepared our bags for the next morning.

We woke up at 5:45 and had ordered our breakfast for 6:15 knowing the bigger groups were getting theirs at 6:30. We wanted to be ahead of them to ensure we had a room everywhere we went (we always did) because those trekking with guides would have booked the rooms in advance and we didn’t want to end up sleeping in the dining halls. Also the rain always starts around 2-4pm so we wanted to be done hiking by then everyday to avoid being soaked.

We made a stop in Forest camp (2600m) for some food (slightly cheaper food prices here than anywhere else) and kept on our journey to the top. We reached Low Camp (2990m) around 2pm (about 7 hours of hiking/rest stops), had some hot showers, I washed a few crucial clothing items, and there were more games of cards in the warm dining hall. The food here and service wasn’t so great, it took forever for us and this Dutch/French couple we met to get anything we ordered, but at least we had good company.

The next morning we were up again at 5:45 and ready to go by 7. Our washing had dried perfectly by the fire and we had high spirits of making it to High camp today (3580m). There is no actual lodge at Base camp (4500m), so High camp is as close as you can get to staying there. It was a short hiking day, only 2.5-3 hours, so we tried to figure out what to do with the rest of our day. I didn’t want to do any washing up there because it was just too damn cold, so instead we, along with the Dutch/French couple, decided to check out a part of the hike to base camp before calling it quits. It was really nice not having a bag to carry, but with the thinner air it still wasn’t easy to hike. As the clouds rolled in, we turned around and near the end of our hike the hail started. We made it back to the teahouse safely and cozied up to the wood stove with some tea. I stretched out my muscles a bit and thanked the heavens for the luxury of not having to camp outside, like some groups had paid for.

We were up extra early the next morning, at 4AM. I hadn’t slept well that night because I was so cold, so needless to say I was tired. I briefly debated not going for sunrise, but Harry bugged me until I got up and I finally crawled out from the blankets. Some people got breakfast, we opted for granola bars and that was enough for us at that early hour.

Equipped with headlamps, we headed out with the Dutch/French couple and began our ascent. The terrain was snowy, rocky, and slippery. When the sun eventually started to peak from behind the mountains, it became very muddy as well. Regardless, we all made it to the first, second, and final viewpoints of the trek. We were surrounded by giant mountains that felt so close we could touch them. It was an incredible feeling, one that keeps me coming back to these mountainous regions and forces me to keep trekking even though it’s very physically demanding. It was worth all of the effort and I would do it again in a heartbeat if I had another chance.

Harry and Steve (a British guy) continued on to base camp. The map said it was another 3.2km with 500m elevation gain, so everyone else wasn’t so ecstatic about it. The views from base camp aren’t any better than the ones from the third viewpoint, so going there just ensures certain bragging rights and an ego boost. At the time I was with a Danish girl, so she and I headed back while the boys went to base camp. We still have our own bragging rights because between the four of us, the Dutch/French couple, and a Spanish guy, no one else even made it to the final viewpoint, they all stopped at the second point, which still had a nice view but not quite the same.

I turned around because knowing how quickly the rain/snow comes mixed with how much longer it would take me to get there than the boys, it just didn’t make sense for me to go. We still had to descend down to Forest camp that same day so I didn’t want to waste my energy. Enough excuses though. We all made it down quick enough, the boys only arriving back to High camp 45 minutes after we did (it apparently wasn’t so hard after all), and Harry and I had a quick meal before going down as quickly as we could to Forest camp. Down is, of course, much faster than up, so we didn’t have too many problems. My muscles and knees were pretty done by that point though; I was ready to be finished for the day. We all had hot showers and I did some laundry. It dried nicely by the wood stove, where we played our last game of cards with the French/Dutch couple.

The next day, they left for Pokhara. We decided to take another route to the Jinhu hot springs. We trekked down to Landruk, then up to New Bridge and finally Jinhu. About half an hour before making it to Jinhu, we were caught in the pouring rain. We were hot from trekking but the rain and wind were very cold. By the time we arrived to Jinhu, I was shivering and ready for some warmth, but apparently there are no wood stoves along the ABC trail any longer, which was a HUGE disappointment. The coziness in the teahouses was gone. So, we dropped our stuff and hiked down to the hot springs. There we had to take showers in the natural hot water showers (which were really hot) before entering the pool (which was fairly warm-ish). The temperatures of the water didn’t really make sense, and also the water was still quite dirty regardless of people showering, so I can’t say they were my favourite hot springs I’ve been too. Still, they were nice to relax and warm up in for a short while before heading up to avoid more rain.

We were up especially early the next morning because along the ABC trail it’s super busy and you really never know if you’re going to get a room or not without booking in advance. It being the end of high season, there weren’t as many people so it was alright. We hiked for about 5 hours up to Bamboo camp. We debated going further, but I wanted to stop here to do some much needed laundry (I had slipped in the mud the day before in my only warm pants). So we stayed and read the books we brought. We found it a bit harder to make instant friends here because it’s mostly big groups, older folks, and families on this trek, and they often keep to themselves a bit more. We were in a teahouse with a group of 20 Thai people, so we made more conversations with the guides that afternoon and evening.

The next morning, the usual happened as on any trek I go on- I caught a cold. Knives in my throat, runny nose, headache, etc. We had been planning to go up to ABC all the way and were only a night away from it, it was so tempting to continue up. So we decided to still try in a way that made things a lot easier for me. We left my backpack behind and brought only the essentials for one night in Harry’s bag, and he carried everything (Good Guy Harry). We made it maybe half an hour in before I started feeling worse and worse, and eventually I told Harry I couldn’t go on like this. So, because of my stupid cold, we couldn’t make it to ABC. We turned around and headed down- we had still seen some amazing sights. If it had been warmer where we were with wood stoves and if I had some proper medicine, I might have stayed an extra night at Bamboo and let Harry go enjoy the views up top, but we knew I would only continue getting worse if I stayed and we still had to hike it down.

We grabbed our stuff from Bamboo (Harry carried all of my heavier items) and made it down to Jinhu. We considered going further, but the rain started and I wasn’t really feeling up for it anyhow. We were only three hours hiking away from where we would catch the bus, and we definitely wouldn’t make it today anyway, so we were in a pretty good spot.

We met a really cool French couple there who had gotten a very good deal on what must have been the best room in all of Jinhu. Harry and I had been staying for 200 rupees ($2) per night (total, not each) and they were staying for 600 per night in this “fancy” room that had an attached bathroom and two huge windows open only to the mountains and forest. The bed was super comfy and they even had hot water when the sun was shining. Had we known we could get a deal like that, we definitely would have done it (they were staying for two nights so had some bargaining power). But the room was taken now and we had already settled in our cardboard box room, so we stuck with it.

The next morning we slept in a little (6:30-7am) and made our way to the bus stop in Siwai. We got there just in time to catch the bus and were on our way to Pokhara again. After maybe an hour we made it, then hopped on a public bus to get closer to our hotel, then walked another 20-30 minutes to finally reach it. We arrived and had much needed showers, food, and rest. Despite not making it to ABC, we were glad to finally relax our feet and muscles for a while.

Now we are chillaxing in Pokhara and I am slowly getting better. We have moved to a nicer hotel closer to the center for the same price. It has comfier beds, fast wifi, and great showers, so it’s a perfect spot to get healthy again. And now I can get all of those pricy vegan, non-GMO, organic smoothies to help me get better (I’m too cheap so I go for honey, lemon, ginger tea and the odd carrot juice).

We are heading to Kathmandu in about a week, and I probably won’t have any updates until we head to our next country- Myanmar. So until then, folks!